The Best of Bosnia: A Road Trip Itinerary Through History, Waterfalls & Hidden Gems
We visited Bosnia as part of our larger Croatia road trip — 16 days covering both countries back to back. Of the two, Bosnia surprised us the most. The country carries a heavy historical burden that’s impossible to ignore, but between the scars of war you find extraordinary nature, genuine hospitality, and a spirit that’s hard not to admire. Go now, before it gets discovered.
General Tips
Roaming — watch out!
This one cost us a near-miss. When driving through the Una NP region near the Bosnian border, your phone can silently connect to a Bosnian mobile mast — especially if Google Maps navigation is running. Turn your data roaming off before you approach the border. The switch happens without any notification and you’ll only find out when the bill arrives. Extra painful if you have an e-sim with data for Bosnia.
Currency
Bosnia uses the Convertible Mark (BAM). Cards are accepted in most cities but cash is still king in smaller towns and national parks. Withdraw before you head into the countryside.
Prices
Bosnia is noticeably cheaper than Croatia. A solid dinner with drinks rarely exceeded €15–20 per person. Accommodation under €50/night is the norm and quality is generally good.
Roads
Main roads are in good condition. Mountain roads — particularly near Kulen Vakuf and parts of Sutjeska — can be narrow, steep, and challenging. A regular rental car handles it all, but take it slow and don’t trust the GPS blindly on mountain passes. When in doubt, ask a local.
Border crossings
Bosnia sits in the middle of this route. Crossings are generally quick — have your passport ready and be aware that the Neum corridor (on the Dubrovnik–Split drive) puts you briefly into Bosnia. You can bypass it via the Peljesac Bridge if you came from Ston/Mali-ston like we did. Plan your navigation accordingly to avoid unnecessary crossings.
1. Una National Park – Štrbački Buk
We crossed into Bosnia and almost immediately found ourselves standing in front of one of the most impressive waterfalls of the entire trip. Štrbački Buk is a wide, horseshoe-shaped cascade with remarkable power — and we essentially had it to ourselves.
The key tip: approach from the Bosnian side. Wooden walkways bring you right alongside the falling water for viewpoints that the Croatian side simply doesn’t offer. Entrance is a couple of euros and completely worth it.
This is also where the roaming tip above matters most. If your navigation is still running on data when you cross the border, you’re already on a Bosnian mast.
We stayed at Sherwood Resort in Bihać — a good base for the Una NP area.
2. Martin Brod (Una NP)
Still within Una NP, Martin Brod deserves its own stop. The waterfall here is generous in scale, and in wet weather it becomes spectacular. There’s a historic watermill on site where traditional washing methods are still demonstrated — entrance just €0.50 — though we skipped it this time. Combined with Štrbački Buk, these two waterfalls make Una NP a proper highlight and not just a border town detour.
3. Kulen Vakuf
We drove up the hill to Kulen Vakuf’s castle for views over the valley below. On a clear day, this must be something. We had some rain, which limited things a bit.
Navigation warning: the GPS routed us up a rough, narrow track where we met large jeeps coming the other way. Not ideal in a rental. Park at the intersection where a small pagoda-style shelter stands and walk the remaining kilometer up on foot. Don’t venture further with a rental car — the road beyond gets genuinely narrow and steep, with no room to pass. The short uphill walk is easy enough and the valley views reward you.
4. Jajce
Jajce has the unusual distinction of having a waterfall right in the town center. To get close to it, you pay a small entrance fee — which feels a little mercenary for a natural feature in the middle of a town, but the surroundings are historic enough to justify the stop. The medieval fortress above is worth a quick look and the old center is pleasant for a coffee. We were caught in rain here and kept it brief — a half-day stop is plenty.
5. Travnik
One of our favorite surprises in Bosnia. The evening started at an Irish pub where local regulars insisted on buying rounds at an enthusiastic tempo. We then ate at Hari’s for Travnički Ćevapi — reputedly the finest version of this dish in the entire country. The verdict: yes, they’re that good.
The next morning opened at Lutva’s Coffee at Plava Voda — a beautiful, spring-side setting that alone is worth the stop in Travnik.
The fort above the city is considered the best preserved in Bosnia: small museum inside, impressive walls, and a great view from the top. We stayed at Hotel Vezir Palace (€67/night), which looks directly onto the fort — a genuinely nice choice.
6. Ravne Tunnels
Near Visoko you’ll find the Ravne Tunnels — an unofficial archaeological site that the Bosnian government does not formally recognize. The tunnels are said to channel healing energy, ionize the air, and protect the body from the harmful effects of WiFi and stress. Novak Djokovic is apparently a regular visitor.
We’ll leave the scientific evaluation to you. What we can say: the tunnels are real, the atmosphere is unusual, and it’s worth visiting if you’re curious about something genuinely offbeat. Just go in with appropriate expectations and an open mind. Whether or not you believe the claims, it’s an experience you won’t find anywhere else.
7. Sarajevo
Sarajevo gets under your skin. The city moves at its own pace — narrow cobblestone streets, countless café terraces, Ottoman bazaars sitting next to Austro-Hungarian facades. We aren’t museum people, however, we visited Gallery 11/07/1995 which is very impressive. There are pictures and testimonials which land very hard. Incredible what it must have been. Walking around the old Baščaršija neighbourhood gives you enough to feel the texture of the city.
The Latin Bridge is quietly extraordinary. It looks like any other old bridge over a river — until you realize you’re standing at the exact spot where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in 1914, directly triggering the First World War. There’s a small marker. Nothing flashy. The restraint somehow makes it more powerful.
Bobsled Track ⛇
Built for the 1984 Winter Olympics, the bobsled track on Mount Trebević is now abandoned, graffiti-covered, and swallowed by forest — and it’s one of the most surreal places we’ve ever visited. Famous from Belgian travel shows like Reizen Waes and Met de Wind Mee, it’s now also on the Sporty Travellers list.
Getting there: the GPS sent us up through impossibly narrow residential streets. At one point we nearly turned back at a no-entry sign before a local waved us through, assuring us this was perfectly normal. It was tight. We were glad there was no oncoming traffic. Do this at your own responsibility or take the cable car from the city center.
A local organization runs short rides on wheeled sleds down part of the track. We passed — but if you want the real bobsled experience, check out our bobsled run in Innsbruck.
Golf in Sarajevo ⛳
Bosnia only has three golf clubs in the entire country, and this was our first stop. The Sarajevo course has a unique 6-hole layout, so to play a standard 9-hole round, you repeat holes 1, 2, and 6.
The setting gives you great views over the city and surrounding hills, making for a challenging and memorable afternoon. (And for the record, one ridiculously long putt was holed!).
Booking tip: Don’t bother sending an email for a tee time—the owner cheerfully told us he just doesn’t do email. Calling works, but honestly, the best approach is to just pass by in person to claim your spot on the tee.
Tunnel of Hope
The tunnel dug beneath Sarajevo airport to supply the besieged city during the 1990s war is a significant piece of history. Honest assessment: at around €10 per person, it’s on the expensive side for what you get — the restored section is short and nothing like the original muddy conditions. The story it tells is important, but calibrate your expectations accordingly.
We stayed at Rubik in Sarajevo (€29/night — exceptional value).
8. Tjentište & Sutjeska National Park
Sutjeska is Bosnia’s oldest and most impressive national park and Tjentište is its main hub. We were out here in what felt like the middle of nowhere — and it was exactly what we needed.
The Pool
Reputed to be the largest hand-dug swimming pool in Europe, fed directly by a river. The scale is absurd when you see it. Only open in summer — we were there just outside season. The “market” next to it was a tiny shop with fresh bread and cheese — exactly what you need when you’re this far from civilization.
For dinner: a restaurant converted from a gas station serving local ćevapčići-style sausages. Brilliantly eccentric interior, genuinely good food. Highly recommended. [Name to add]
Perućica Primeval Forest
One of the last old-growth forests in Europe — untouched by human hand for over 20,000 years. Entry without an official guide is not permitted. With transfer and guide: €130 per person. Expensive? Yes. We questioned it at the time. But the forest is genuinely extraordinary, the experience is rare, and you won’t find anything quite like it anywhere else in Europe. Book in advance. Would we do it again, difficult question. If you are short on time or budget, you can safely skip it. In the end it’s a forest 🙂
The Memorial
The WWII Partisan memorial is the official draw, and it’s impressive. But the real surprise was the adjacent building — something between an exhibition space and a monument that felt, to us, like a Bosnian version of the Menin Gate in Ypres. Unexpectedly moving. Walking paths connect the memorial to the pool and to a hotel that has seen much better days. The whole area could use investment, but the bones are remarkable.
We stayed at Apartman Kosuta Lux Mountain View (€47/night) — excellent value.
9. Trebinje Area
We made a navigational error here: we programmed the wrong monastery. The one we actually intended to visit was still ahead on our route. The detour added a short distance and brought us to a different monastery in the Trebinje area — beautiful inside, with a remarkable stadium-like structure used for religious gatherings. We wouldn’t have chosen it deliberately, but we’re glad we went.
10. Medugorje
Reportedly the third largest pilgrimage site in Europe (and likely the largest on major feast days), Međugorje is a place of massive scale. We arrived a few days before Pentecost Monday to find the town setting up for a huge concert and 25 outdoor confession booths already in full operation.
It naturally brings out mixed feelings. Beyond the sheer size of the operation, you see a lot of raw human emotion and difficult life situations—people visiting from all over the world in search of healing or miracles.
Whatever your own background, it’s a compelling cultural experience to observe. Go with an open mind, no set agenda, and respect for the diverse reasons people journey here.
11. Vrelo Bune & Bunski Kanali
Order matters here: visit Bunski Kanali first, then Vrelo Bune, then drive on to Mostar.
Bunski Kanali is one of those places that sounds like a human creation but is entirely natural: two rivers running alongside each other, one gradually merging into the other. It looks exactly like a canal. It isn’t. Strange, beautiful, free.
Vrelo Bune is famous for its postcard image — crystal water welling up beneath Blagai Tekke Monastery, a small white house. You don’t need to enter the house and pay admission to get the photo. We went inside first without realizing this, so learn from our mistake: enjoy the spring from the outside and save the entrance fee.
12. Mostar
Mostar carries the visible scars of the 1990s war throughout its streets. The rebuilding has happened, but the evidence of what was destroyed remains. That context matters when you walk the old town — the atmosphere is lively, charming, and full of life, but there’s weight underneath it.
The Stari Most bridge is a reconstruction — the original was destroyed in 1993 and rebuilt in 2004. It’s still iconic. Note that the stone is worn to a near-mirror finish by millions of footsteps — watch your step on the bridge itself. Brave locals still leap from the bridge into the Neretva River for the crowd’s applause, just as they have for centuries.
On the way out, we stopped at the Partisan Cemetery on the outskirts of the city. Based on photographs, it once looked extraordinary. Now it’s overgrown and neglected. A shame.
We stayed at Apartments 16th Street, Mostar (€51/night).
13. Golf club Posusje ⛳
We weren’t sure what to expect playing golf in Bosnia, but this turned out to be a really enjoyable stop on our trip. It’s a small clubhouse in a remote setting, and when we arrived, nobody was inside. There was just a phone number on the door for the greenkeeper, who came right over to set us up.
They handed over a fully equipped Callaway bag (likely borrowed from a resident member), and everything was included in one go: clubs, trolleys, range balls, and a drink from the house. The driving range is just across the small street—you literally hit balls out into the tall grass of an open field, which felt wonderfully rustic (though you have to feel a bit sorry for whoever has to find and collect them!).
The course itself is straightforward and very relaxed. It’s mostly wide-open green terrain with a few isolated sand areas, featuring a par-5 and a few longer par-4s. Nothing overly technical, but both the greens and the practice putting area were surprisingly well-maintained.
Aside from a German couple a few holes ahead of us when we started, we had the place entirely to ourselves. They apparently see around 1,000 visitors a year, but for our round, it felt completely peaceful and laid-back.
We had such a stress-free afternoon that we stuck around after lunch for a second round. That officially checks off 2 out of the 3 golf courses in Bosnia (over 50%!). The collection continues. 🏌️♂️
14. Kravica Waterfall
On the road from Dubrovnik towards Split, a short detour through the Bosnian corridor to Kravica is very much worth making. This is one of the rare waterfalls where you’re actually allowed to swim — and the setting, a wide horseshoe of cascading water into a turquoise pool, is magnificent. It reminded us of our waterfall experiences in Costa Rica.
Navigation tip: plan your route through the Neum corridor carefully to avoid unnecessary border crossings. Check the map before you go. Entrance fee applies and parking is charged separately — in our opinion, parking should be included in the ticket.
