Altea: Our Costa Blanca Base for Climbing & Adventure
After our biking workation in Alicante and a stay in Calpe, we returned to the Costa Blanca — this time basing ourselves in Altea. A new base means new roads to explore, some familiar climbs from a different angle, and a few discoveries we did not expect. Once again we escaped the grey Belgian winter and it was absolutely worth it.
Getting There: Belgium to Altea by Van
I left Belgium on a Friday morning at 05:15. To bring two bikes, our golf gear and ski equipment, I rented a Ford Transit van from Dockx — it drives very smoothly and swallows everything without any problem. The French motorways are excellent and traffic was not an issue, but the péage (toll roads) adds up quickly and fuel prices in France are high — especially for petrol. After covering 1,300 km I pulled in at Caldes de Malavella, a small spa town in Catalonia, at 16:55 — just under 11 hours of driving at an average of 118 km/h. The next morning I left again at 06:30 and arrived at our villa in Altea before noon.
My overnight stop was the 1881 Hotel Balneario Vichy Catalan. The building is stunning — beautiful 19th-century Moorish Revival architecture that feels like something out of another era. I used the thermal circuit: a sauna, two indoor pools and a hammam. It runs in one-hour time slots, which feels a bit rigid, though you can stay longer if you like. My honest verdict: it is a fine stopover and the mineral-rich thermal water is genuinely special, but don’t expect a luxury spa experience. The restaurant was efficient — almost too efficient — but lacks atmosphere. My room was small, clean, comfortable and the bed was excellent. Good value for a midway stop.
Where We Stayed
We rented a villa through Airbnb and it was a great find. Fully equipped with a swimming pool and a sea view that you could enjoy right from the bed. For a cycling trip, having a proper washing machine is an underrated luxury — kit dried overnight and was ready every morning.
The location was ideal for cycling — very close to the bottom of the Coll de Rates descent towards Altea. There is one small catch: the road to the villa includes a short segment of 18%. In the first few days that was a memorable way to end a ride. By the end of the trip, it barely registered.
Coll de Rates: the Classic from the Altea Side
We already wrote about Coll de Rates in our Calpe post, where we climbed it from Parcent. Starting from Altea you get the southern approach, which is longer and more varied. After a gradual start the gradients increase properly and the upper section is beautifully consistent — you can understand why this is one of the most popular training climbs in the world. You will find plenty of cyclists going up and immediately turning around for the next interval block.
On a clear day the views near the top — looking out over the village below and as far as the eye can see — are magnificent. It never gets old.
Super Coll de Rates: for Those Who Want More
At the summit of Coll de Rates, there is a small track continuing upward. This is what some call Super Coll de Rates, and it is exactly what it sounds like. About 3 km of sheep’s path with gradients regularly hitting 16-17% and nothing much below 10%. There is a short gravel section at the very start (roughly 200 metres) but it is perfectly manageable on a road bike. From that point it gets seriously steep and the only strategy is simple: do not stop. Keep turning the pedals and keep moving.
The reward at the top is extraordinary. The views are even better than from the regular summit — you can see all the way to Benidorm and the mountains surrounding it. A video of this climb can be found at the bottom of this page. ’
Vall d'Ebo: Even Better the Other Way Around
We described the Vall d’Ebo in our Calpe post going in one direction. This trip we rode it the other way and it might be even more beautiful. The first section coming from the Rates side is simply stunning — one of those stretches where you instinctively slow down to take it all in. When you reach the village of Ebo you can take the short but punchy climb. From the other direction that same climb is much longer and more gradual, which is why you often see professional teams doing lactate tests there.
From Ebo we continued south through the Parc Natural de la Mariola de Pego-Oliva all the way to the coast, and this extension made it one of the best rides of the entire trip. The park road is spectacular and the descent brought us onto flat coastal roads with a full tailwind — we were cruising at 44 km/h without much effort on perfectly smooth asphalt at 19 degrees. Coming back along the coast there was more headwind from Xàbia onwards, but nothing dramatic. A big day — around 130 km and 2,100 metres of climbing — but absolutely worth it.
Port de Bernia: Do It in Reverse
Port de Bernia is an unusual climb. Approaching from the Altea/Calpe side, the first couple of kilometres feel steep, then the road goes almost flat for a while before suddenly becoming very steep again towards the top. The road surface is not always great and the whole thing can feel a bit inconsistent. Our recommendation is to ride it in the opposite direction. The climb from the other side is more regular and more satisfying. The roads in this area are very quiet — you are far from the main cycling circuit here — which gives it a special, remote feel.
Port Tudons: Three Ways Up
We mentioned Port Tudons in our Alicante post but it deserves a more complete description because you can approach it from three directions, each with its own character.
Option 1 — from Calpe, direct: The most straightforward approach, climbing from the foot of the mountain. Consistent gradients, nice views opening up as you gain altitude.
Option 2 — from Calpe via Relleu: Take the road through Relleu and join the Port Tudons climb higher up. One important note: always climb through Relleu, never descend. The descent has an enormous number of bends with barely any gradient, which makes it slow and frustrating. Going up through it is no problem at all, and you join Port Tudons at the perfect point to enjoy the best section of the climb.
Option 3 — the Penaguila approach: Split off during the descent towards Cofrides and head instead through Penaguila. The views over the valley on this approach are magnificent and the climb flows really well. The road surface near the top is not perfect but manageable — again, better going up than coming down. This route is about 8 km.
Where all three routes meet at the summit, there is one more challenge available: a military installation and weather station at the very top. Cars are not allowed but cyclists are usually welcome to ride up. It is apparently a serious additional effort — and we have not done it yet. There is always something to save for next time.
The Guadalest Loop: Worth It Once
From Beniarda you can ride a loop around the Embasament de Guadalest — the reservoir below the village of Cofrides. The scenery is beautiful and riding through the tiny, almost-deserted old village is genuinely charming. Hardly anyone around, a feeling of stepping back in time. That said, the loop involves a lot of tight hairpin bends with limited opportunity for speed, and it covers a fair distance, so it can feel slow.
Our verdict: do it once for the experience, and don’t expect it to be fast. If you approach from the Benimenatell side you will also ride near Castell de Guadalest — a beautiful hilltop castle village that is popular with tourists. You won’t stop there with the bike on, but it is worth knowing it is there.
Mirador Morro de Toix: A Safety Warning
Between Calpe and Altea there are a couple of tunnels at the headland of Morro de Toix. Most cyclists ride around via the Mirador — approaching from the Calpe side for the panorama over Calpe, the Peñón de Ifach and the coastline. It is one of the best views of the Costa Blanca and a must on a clear day.
I climbed it from the other direction, going up through the residential area of Pueblo Mascarat. That access road has extended sections of 20-24%. Not easy, but the kind of thing that makes you feel alive. At the top the asphalt seemed to end, but I could tell that the descent was on the other side — about 300 metres of gravel and then back onto the road towards the Mirador.
If you ride from the Calpe side in the normal direction, you will not encounter this chain. But if you ever approach from Pueblo Mascarat: ride slowly on the descent and stay alert. Some warning flags or signs would not be out of place there.
Wind: Take It Seriously
Something that set this trip apart from previous ones was the wind. People who have cycled here for many years told us they had never experienced anything like it. In Belgium a very windy day is force 8 or 9 — on bad days maybe 10 or 12. Here the app Yr was regularly showing force 16, and you felt every bit of it. The problem is not sustained wind that you can adapt to, but sudden, violent sideways gusts that push you off your line without any warning.
On one Saturday we received a national alert advising against all outdoor sports. I went out anyway in the morning for a short ride and on the descent towards Calpe — blue sky, warm sun, good visibility — I came down at 30 km/h with both brakes fully applied and was still pushed sideways by more than half a metre in a fraction of a second. It was genuinely frightening. I met only a handful of other cyclists on the road.
That afternoon we drove to Benidorm instead, which in Belgium has a reputation as the destination for senior package holidays and was the setting of the TV series “Benidorm Bastards”. In reality it is much more modern and pleasant than the stereotype. The wind was still very present — terrace chairs were blowing around — but with a Sangria on the promenade it was a fine afternoon regardless.
A Ride Through Benidorm
On one of our rides we cycled along the Benidorm promenade and through the old town centre. Not many cycling tourists probably venture in there — traffic lights, roundabouts and general traffic make it slow going — but it was a fun experience once. The old centre has more character than you might expect. If you go during the week it is much quieter than weekends.
The Short Loop: 55 km, 800 m
If you only have a few hours, the coastal loop from Calpe towards Moraira and the climb in Benitatxell is a great option. Only 55 km but already 800 metres of elevation. Continue via Teulada and Benissa — the main road there can be exposed and windy — and then the fast run back towards Calpe. A perfect half-day ride with more than enough climbing to feel the effort.
Something this trip taught us: after a few weeks in a region full of climbs, your perspective completely shifts. A climb that makes you groan on day one becomes the new normal by the end. We live in very flat Flanders, and yet by the last week the hills just felt like roads. It is one of the nicer side effects of spending time here.
Packing Tips
A few things we learned from experience in this region. The temperature difference between valley and summit can be dramatic — we started one ride to Port Tudons in 20-degree sunshine and arrived at the top in 5 degrees with a long, cold descent ahead. Always bring a wind vest, arm warmers or a bodywarmer, and gloves. You can always take them off on the next climb, but you will really need them going down.
Spotting the Pros
The Costa Blanca in late winter and early spring is essentially one big professional cycling training camp. On this trip we spotted Mathieu van der Poel, Remco Evenepoel, and teams including Lotto, Tudor, Alpecin-Deceuninck, Visma-Lease a Bike, EF Education and several women’s teams — including Belgian champion Justine Ghekière. The pros train on the exact same roads you ride, which is one of the great things about this region. We always give them plenty of space and just enjoy the moment.
Altea Old Town: a Must
After the bike, make sure you visit the old town of Altea at least once. The hilltop centre is a wonderful maze of narrow white-washed streets leading up to the famous church with its blue dome. There are so many good restaurants here — and by Belgian standards the prices are almost shockingly affordable.
For a drink in the evening, we highly recommend La Mascarada on Plaça de l’Església (also known as Bar Museo del Capitán Kurt). The interior is extraordinary — an eclectic collection of objects, masks and curiosities from floor to ceiling, somewhere between a cocktail bar and a curiosity museum. The cocktails are excellent. And please, visit the toilets 😄
The Gallery: 25 Days in the Marina Baixa
25 days in Altea changes your perspective. You stop being a “cycle tourist” and start feeling like a local. You learn which roads have the smoothest tarmac, which village fountains have the coldest water, and exactly how the light hits the limestone ridges of the Sierra Aitana at sunset. Here are a few final glimpses of our month-long residency in the heart of the Costa Blanca.
As we packed the van for the long drive back to Belgium, one thing was certain: the ‘grey winter’ we left behind felt a lifetime away. 25 days, 1,500 kilometers, and a thousand hairpins later, we left with stronger legs and a very clear goal: to be back on these roads as soon as the mountains call again.
